How do I care for my mice?
Bedding- In terms of bedding, I use Megazorb purchased from this website: http://www.millbryhill.co.uk/equestrian-530/horse-bedding-592/megazorb-horse-bedding-807.htm . Although it is manufactured for horses, I find it works perfectly as mouse bedding, as it doesn't get up their noses and cause respitory conditions, and it's very soft and comfy- ideal for litters! One 85L bag lasts about a month or two (Depending on how many litters I have) and for £7.99 (And a bit extra for postage), it's not a bad deal at all, compared to products such as Carefresh which cost an arm and a leg. You can buy pine bedding for cheaper but it's really not reccommended; I stopped using it altogether when I realised how dusty it was, and having allergies myself I hated the thought of my pets perminantly sneezing and having sore eyes. Never use Cedar on any pet. Its toxic to them.
Food- Alot of people use lab blocks for their mice as that's normally the only way to give them all their nutrients. However its a mouses natural instinct to forage, and they can get mental problems if they don't get a chance to. Therefore I alter the foods I give them- Normally they would have Pets at Home Hamster Muesli, whereas expecting mothers, pups, and males in with the pregnant mums get Pets at Home Hamster Nuggets. When I'm introducing another food to them its done over the course of about ten days. Alot of people talk bad about Pets at Home but my local stores are very knowledgable, and I always have and probably always will feed all of my pets (Mice, Degus, Chinchillas Guinea Pigs and Budgies) on their own brand.
Cages- Heres where it gets a little complicated! Right now I am saving up for this: http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/9350043.htm , where my litters that are over four weeks would be housed (A single boy in each of the four drawers, and about four to five females in each large drawer), where they would wait to be rehomed. I am currently using bin cages, which is where you take a large plastic storage container and cut out a window in the side or at the top, then either melt using a soldering iron or screw wire screen mesh/chicken mesh on (I like to use wire screen mesh as flies can't get through). These prove extremely easy to clean, spacious, cheap and you can very easily catch the mice when you need to (and check on babies without disturbing the mum). When i purchase the drawers I'll be cutting out a window either side- better ventilation!
Toys & Accessories- In each mouses cage there is a food bowl, water bottle, a wheel and some kind of object to chew. In terms of food bowls I prefer low down ceramic ones, which are hard to tip over and mice can easily reach, however many ceramic bowls are quite high in depth so I am sometimes resorted to plastic bowls. I dont mind plastic, but it's easier to clean ceramic and it's also harder to tip, creating less mess and waste! With water bottles, I melt three holes in one side of the cage and poke the spout through the lowest, with it being held on by wire that goes through the two little ones. Sometimes (When my soldering iron needs cleaning or has broke) I will make a chicken wire contraption which holds the bottle upright in the cage, whilst giving the mice something to climb on! For wheels I like to either use Pets at Home Coloured Multi-gym Pod, which is great for a wheel, and can be doubled as a running ball (I never do this with mice however- it's more suited to hamsters). I also love the Wodent Wheel, as it's more enjoyable for the mouse (They prefer to run against walls) but it can be a little pricey. Mice always need something to chew to keep their teeth down, otherwise they find it extremely painful to eat and often die of starvation. I give them toilet rolls almost daily, which are practically free and make great hideout spots for them, and from time to time will buy them a larger wooden toy for them to have fun in. I've never had any tooth problems involving pets yet!
Breeding- Anyone who doesn't want to be over run with mice should not try breeding at all. These guys can have up to 25 in a litter- I think the record is 34! Mice rarely have anyless than 6 babies, and you must make sure you find great homes for all of these- I have refused buyers before as I didn't trust they would have a good and safe home. The mice I own are all weighed prior to mating, any less than about 18g I will leave to fatten up a little. Males it doesn't matter as much, though I like them to be somewhere round that mark too. After mating, I continue to weigh the female every few days- when she hits day 16 I remove the male from the tank and place him on his own, and stop weighing my female. On the 18th day I will hardly open the cage- just to check if she has given birth, as at this point it's crucial not to stress the mum, else you have a cannibal parent on your hands! If it's a tame female I'll count and check the pinkies are still alive by day 2, but more often I leave it until day 3. I never leave it past day 4, as then dead babies can start decomposing and spread bad bacteria. They are all then housed together until 3.5 weeks, when I remove the boys from the mother. Girls stay in until they are bought.
Sorry about all the text- Just wanted to describe in detail!
Food- Alot of people use lab blocks for their mice as that's normally the only way to give them all their nutrients. However its a mouses natural instinct to forage, and they can get mental problems if they don't get a chance to. Therefore I alter the foods I give them- Normally they would have Pets at Home Hamster Muesli, whereas expecting mothers, pups, and males in with the pregnant mums get Pets at Home Hamster Nuggets. When I'm introducing another food to them its done over the course of about ten days. Alot of people talk bad about Pets at Home but my local stores are very knowledgable, and I always have and probably always will feed all of my pets (Mice, Degus, Chinchillas Guinea Pigs and Budgies) on their own brand.
Cages- Heres where it gets a little complicated! Right now I am saving up for this: http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/9350043.htm , where my litters that are over four weeks would be housed (A single boy in each of the four drawers, and about four to five females in each large drawer), where they would wait to be rehomed. I am currently using bin cages, which is where you take a large plastic storage container and cut out a window in the side or at the top, then either melt using a soldering iron or screw wire screen mesh/chicken mesh on (I like to use wire screen mesh as flies can't get through). These prove extremely easy to clean, spacious, cheap and you can very easily catch the mice when you need to (and check on babies without disturbing the mum). When i purchase the drawers I'll be cutting out a window either side- better ventilation!
Toys & Accessories- In each mouses cage there is a food bowl, water bottle, a wheel and some kind of object to chew. In terms of food bowls I prefer low down ceramic ones, which are hard to tip over and mice can easily reach, however many ceramic bowls are quite high in depth so I am sometimes resorted to plastic bowls. I dont mind plastic, but it's easier to clean ceramic and it's also harder to tip, creating less mess and waste! With water bottles, I melt three holes in one side of the cage and poke the spout through the lowest, with it being held on by wire that goes through the two little ones. Sometimes (When my soldering iron needs cleaning or has broke) I will make a chicken wire contraption which holds the bottle upright in the cage, whilst giving the mice something to climb on! For wheels I like to either use Pets at Home Coloured Multi-gym Pod, which is great for a wheel, and can be doubled as a running ball (I never do this with mice however- it's more suited to hamsters). I also love the Wodent Wheel, as it's more enjoyable for the mouse (They prefer to run against walls) but it can be a little pricey. Mice always need something to chew to keep their teeth down, otherwise they find it extremely painful to eat and often die of starvation. I give them toilet rolls almost daily, which are practically free and make great hideout spots for them, and from time to time will buy them a larger wooden toy for them to have fun in. I've never had any tooth problems involving pets yet!
Breeding- Anyone who doesn't want to be over run with mice should not try breeding at all. These guys can have up to 25 in a litter- I think the record is 34! Mice rarely have anyless than 6 babies, and you must make sure you find great homes for all of these- I have refused buyers before as I didn't trust they would have a good and safe home. The mice I own are all weighed prior to mating, any less than about 18g I will leave to fatten up a little. Males it doesn't matter as much, though I like them to be somewhere round that mark too. After mating, I continue to weigh the female every few days- when she hits day 16 I remove the male from the tank and place him on his own, and stop weighing my female. On the 18th day I will hardly open the cage- just to check if she has given birth, as at this point it's crucial not to stress the mum, else you have a cannibal parent on your hands! If it's a tame female I'll count and check the pinkies are still alive by day 2, but more often I leave it until day 3. I never leave it past day 4, as then dead babies can start decomposing and spread bad bacteria. They are all then housed together until 3.5 weeks, when I remove the boys from the mother. Girls stay in until they are bought.
Sorry about all the text- Just wanted to describe in detail!
Pregnant Breeder Cage (Pups are raised in here.)
Normal Breeder Cage
Retired Mouse Cage
They broke their old wheel that came with the cage, it has been replaced.
This is a shop bought cage.
This is a shop bought cage.